Saturday 21 June
Limoges, Perigueux and Les Eyzies de Tayac
Saturday 21 June
Packed and ready to go at 9.30, we had to make a slight detour to Pibrac to pick up Penelope, she had been to a sleep over birthday party. Took a little while as she was having a swim in their pool! Then we were off down the motorway - first stop Limoges. About a 3 hour drive, and through some lovely French countryside once more.
Wikipedia: "Limoges is known for its medieval enamels (Limoges enamels) on copper, for its 19th-century porcelain (Limoges porcelain) and for its oak barrels which are used for Cognac production.
During the 18th century the porcelain industry started to develop, favoured by the presence of kaolinite which was discovered near Limoges in 1768. Many of the inhabitants became employed in the new sector or in connected activities (including the lumbering of wood needed for firing the porcelain) in manufacture and exporting needed for European distribution of Limoges Boxes, dinnerware, and other porcelain wares.
In the 19th century Limoges saw strong construction activity, which included the destruction and rebuilding of much of the city centre. This was necessary, as the town was regarded as unhealthy because of prostitution. The unsafe conditions of the poorer population is highlighted by the outbreak of several riots, including that of July–November 1830; April 1848 and early 1905. The first French confederation of workers, Confédération Générale du Travail (CGT) (General Confederation of Labour), was created in Limoges in 1895."
As we entered the town we passed the 'Royal Limoges" factory, and they had a big hoarding advertising their factory museum and their factory shop, my eyes lit up of course! We headed for the information centre, found a park and sorted ourselves and our packed lunch out while James went over and got some leaflets and maps.
There were plenty of shops around where we were sitting and I took a look at them before we took a short tiki-walk through the centre of town, through the gardens and down to the cathedral.
I found this large town (130,000) rather hard to take in, it is so old, I have seen pictures of these old streets and houses, shops, cobbled roads, in the story books I used to read to my kids, but this is for real!
And this huge cathedral at the top of a rise, so very beautiful and so ancient, why does it always puzzle me that in medieval times people built wonderful things, and really we haven't moved on, only do it quicker with all the hi-tech advances we have.
Limoges Cathedral, St Etienne
Not better, not more beautiful and certainly not as durable, just quicker - not sure what that says about our generation?
After we had walked through this working medieval city we headed along the dual carriageway (!) to the Royal Limoges porcelain factory.
We were not able to go on a tour of the factory unfortunately, apparently they need a party of 15 before that can happen. We needed to get back on the road so went through the museum instead, which was housed in the old factory with the huge kilns fired by coal, they had examples of the molds they used and illustrations of what it was like to work there in those days.
Of course I couldn't leave without buying a lovely piece of Royal Limoges to remind me of my visit.
We were soon back in the car and heading for Perigueux, another little town in the Dordognes.
Wikipedia:"During the calmer periods of the late 15th and early 16th centuries, the Castillon plain on the banks of the Dordogne saw a development in urban architecture. The finest Gothic and Renaissance residences were built in Périgueux, Bergerac and Sarlat. In the countryside, the nobility had the majority of the more than 1200 chateaux, manors and country houses erected. In the second half of the sixteenth century however, the terrors of war again visited the area, as the attacks pillaging and fires of the Wars of Religion reached a rare degree of violence."
We arrived in Perigueux about half an hour later, similar in some way to Limoges but much smaller. We parked the car and as we crossed the road music started pumping from a stage further down in the Boulevard, it was the last day of the international music festival and all over France similar things would be happening.
It lightened our step as we made our way once more through little streets packed with interesting shops all leading into a large square by the cathedral.
It was interesting to see that inside there was a central crucifix with a hanging crown of thorns over the central table. All the seats were on four sides facing the table.
There was also a wonderful wooden wall in the chapel of the church which had been carved many years ago.
And so we walked on to find somewhere to sit and have long- promised ice creams. We found a cafe on a side street (where else) and after the long and arduous performance of choosing multi scoops of delicious ice cream we were shown to the back of the shop where there was a delightful little space with a table and chairs - all to ourselves, delicious!
Wikipedia : "The name Périgueux comes from Petrocorii, a Latinization of Celtic words meaning "the four tribes" – the Gallic people that held the area before the Roman conquest. Périgueux was their capital city. In 200 BC, the Petrocorii came from the north and settled at Périgueux and established an encampment at La Boissière. "
I really enjoyed our brief visit there, I could just imagine as kids running through these narrow streets what fun hide and seek would be. For me it was both fascinating and confusing - in a good way, I would have enjoyed finding my way around the maze of alleyways and exploring the history of the area.
All too soon we were back on the road again and heading for our apartment for the night at Les Eyzies de Tayac.
We didn't get there until 7.45, but the kids had been so good in they car that they were allowed to go for a swim in the beautiful swimming pool, and the day had been in the low 30's so they had earned that dip, they had such a good time, and James and David too, a great way to finish off the day. Rachel made a lovely risotto for dinner and we all fell into bed soon after.
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